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Whenever curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. However, tucked prominently among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family utterly surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary triumph.